Stuff

Day #24: Rabanal to Molinaseca, 17 miles

Day #25: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierza, 19 miles

Day #26: Villafranca to O'Ceberiero and beyond, 19 miles

"The weight of your pack is the sum of your fears."

It has been a week since we shipped our excess stuff on to Santiago. It was a very scary thing! We have seen the above quote and been reminded of it several times. We Americans are particularly known for our heavy packs and worrying about planning for every contingency. I've had to let it go! (This includes conditioner to tame my crazy hair.)  Here is what I have with me:

-one change of clothing (besides what I am wearing)

-extra long-sleeved t-shirt

-thermal pullover

-down vest

-hat and buff and sunglasses

-fleece pants

-light dress for after shower and for sleeping

-rain jacket and pack cover

-basic toiletries and a hunk of soap for washing clothes

-first aid stuff

-a towel that measures 12" x 15"

-phone and charger (can't make calls or send texts but serves as camera, e-reader, and internet when wifi is available)

That's it. There's another saying here: "The Camino will provide."  So far it has!

Tuesday, September 16

One of the highlights of the Camino for many people (along with Alto de Perdon, day #5) is the Cruz de Ferro. It is a high iron cross on top of rocks where most people leave a stone from home and have their picture taken, like this:

So we were excited to arrive there this morning and leave the small rocks we carried from home. Here is the picture of us:

Haha. We were fogged in, there were too many people there, our volunteer photographer cut off the cross, and there was this old Spanish woman who was bent over placing and blessing many stones the whole time we were there. So much for the iconic photo. I have to laugh. 

The fog broke a little later and we were treated to gorgeous views for the rest of the day, many tough miles down the mountain. 

Down to 222 k to go!

Wednesday, September 17

Most of the morning was spent walking into, through, and back out of Ponderrada, a rather large town where a huge international biking race is going to be held this weekend. By afternoon we were in the Bierzo, another wine producing region at the base of the Cantabrian Mountains.  

The Knights Templar castle that guarded Ponderrada and the Camino for centuries. 

The weather was very fickle today-our rain jackets were off and on all day and we saw four rainbows. 

Thursday, September 18

This was a day to remember. We knew it would be a tough one, the most strenuous of the entire Camino, up and over two mountains. The first mountain went well and we walked through gorgeous chestnut orchards on the mountainside. The harvest is just beginning, as the farmers rake the nuts up by hand. 

The challenge started with the second, much-higher climb. Soaking rain, sleet, wind, mud, wayward cows, no rooms at the top after walking nineteen miles, a pricey old hotel with no heat or hot water.  There was much more. I can't even process it all right now. And there's another Camino lesson here somewhere, but may take me a while to figure it out! 

Gracie took this photo of a promising start to the day-looking back on Villafranca in the early morning light. 

This was the trail by late afternoon, near the top, and that was the cow that almost knocked me in the mud. Our own running of the bulls. Today's adventure will make a good story someday.