St. James

Day #35: Santiago to Nagiera, 14 miles

Day #36: Nagreira to Santa Marina, 13 miles

Day #37: Santa Marina to Cee, 19 miles

I've learned a lot about St James on this journey. For example, he is not the James who wrote the Book of James. (I feel kind of bad about this because I have always admired the teachings of that James.) I also regret how the Biblical Apostle somehow morphed into James Matamoros, Moor-slayer, during the battles of the Reconquista in the 9th century. (There was plenty of gruesome artwork along the Camino dedicated to this legend.) And basically I just doubt whether any bones buried in Santiago belonged to the Apostle. There is a theory that the bones identified as James's actually belonged to Priscillian of Avila, a 4th century bishop who was executed by the Church for his "heretical" (gnostic) beliefs, and that the Church appropriated his remains and story in its attempt to quash this early, somewhat pagan branch of Christianity.  Not a lot of evidence for that either. For some reason, none of this matters to me. There are mysteries and history surrounding us here that are far greater than whose bones lie in the cathedral and it is those aspects of the Camino on which I choose to dwell.  

Saturday, September 27

Wow, was it hard to leave Santiago this morning and hit the road again. Our packs are heavier again because we picked up the items we had shipped ahead. But it actually felt good once we started moving. There are far less pilgrims past Santiago, too, which is really nice. 

These funny structures are everywhere. They are called horreos and traditionally they were used to store grain. Now many of them are decorative.

Gracie bought a rubber band bracelet from a little girl who made them and sold them along the road.

Beautiful old bridge over the Rio Tambre

Sunday, September 28

A short day today, due to the distance between albergues (there are not nearly as many past Santiago). Instead, I will write about...food! Some people have wondered how a longtime vegetarian could get by In such meat-heavy culture, but it really hasn't been a problem. I eat fish, eggs, and dairy, so I fill up on those, plus lots of nuts. We are burning so many calories each day that I can also fill up on desserts, which are delicious. 

Cheesecake made with local sheep cheese-not very sweet but delicious.

Hot chocolate and churros. Spanish hot chocolate is not like American-it is very thick and rich and made for dipping fresh churros.

And our favorite-tarta de Santiago. It is made with ground almonds, eggs, and sugar, no flour. I could eat it every day (and have for the last week!) They stencil the Santiago cross on top with powdered sugar.

One final food-pulpo. Octopus and squid are VERY popular here in Galicia. Many restaurants are devoted to it. Although I love the fresh seafood, this is not for me!

Monday, September 29

This was our last long day, and it was a hard one. The morning was very foggy but by early afternoon we crested a hilltop and could see the Atlantic in the far distance. What a thrill!

We were high above the foggy valleys in the distance.

I am really fascinated by the horreos. We saw scores of them the last couple days. This one is stone and sits on stone "mushrooms."

Coming down the trail to Cee, our seaside home for the night.

Santiago, Day 2

Day #34: 0 miles!

Friday, September 26

What a great time we have had here in Santiago. Last night we stood in a long line to have our credentials and stamps checked so we could receive our Compostela certificates. Some people (particularly Spanish Catholics) consider this a kind of get-into-heaven-free card. I just consider it a nice record of my journey:

A portion of the rooftop of the cathedral after sunset. 

Today we received an additional certificate from the Franciscan Convent because it is the 800th anniversary of St. Francis's journey to Santiago. I have a special fondness for St. Francis and was happy to follow in his footsteps and get this certificate. This was a beautiful statue of him near the convent:

At noon we attended mass, hoping to see the botafeirmo swung. It seems to be by chance that you get to see this spectacle. We talked to a friend last night who had attended mass three times and never saw it, but we were in luck. When we entered the cathedral early, a special mass for visiting students was in progress and we ended up seeing it swing twice within an hour. I have to say that the mass was particularly uninspiring-people talked right through it and jockeyed for good spots. Very chaotic. But even I, the skeptic, was moved by the sight of the botafeirmo swinging high up to the ceiling. It is basically a large incense burner (175 pounds of silver-coated bronze) raised with pulleys by eight monks in burgundy velvet robes. It flies high overhead and emits smoke. My understanding is that originally it was used to dispel the smell of the stinky pilgrims. The photo below is what it looks like when grounded. There are lots of good videos online showing it swinging and it was also shown in the movie "The Way." It really was a remarkable experience. 

After the first mass we found a small chapel and lit three candles-two for friends who are seriously ill and one for a friend with serious chronic illnesses. (You know who you are and I hope you could feel our prayers for your peace and healing coming across the ocean to you.)

The altar in the small chapel had beautiful scallop shells along the edges and the Santiago cross in the corners. This cross has been common all along the camino. The design is from the Crusades, combining a cross and a sword.

After the second mass and second botafeirmo we saw several friends in the cathedral. It was great fun to see them again. We all went out for lunch and drinks to celebrate. 

Christine and Jesus from Canada (Jesus was born in Galicia and is going back the hard way!), Grace, Jan from Denmark, Thomas from Germany. We all met in Orisson on August 24, the first day of our journey. We hadn't seen Thomas for weeks. He has already walked to Finisterre and back.  

The great cathedral here, sections of which are almost 1000 years old, is being renovated. As they do with most of Europe's great buildings, they have made screens to shield the construction work. The screens are printed to show the actual building. That is why the pictures look a little odd. 

Some of the facade is real and some is painted screens. 

 From a distance you can tell how much of the real cathedral is under reconstruction. 

Some of tonight's free musical entertainment-Spanish "tuna" singers (seranade singers) in full costume (not a great pic).  At other locations there were a Galician bagpipe player, Korean drummers, a saxophonist, an opera singer, and more. 

Santiago!

Day #32: Arzua to Lavacolla, 16 miles

Day #33: Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela, 6 miles

Wednesday, August 25

Lavacolla is sort of a last stop before Santiago. The name comes from the root lavar, to wash. Pilgrims typically stopped here to purify themselves, physically and mentally, before arriving in Santiago. But so much for reservations! We arrived at a beautiful hotel about six miles outside the city and discovered that our names were nowhere to be found on the reservation list. The owner was kind enough to drive us to a third-rate hotel, but there was no long soak in a tub or having my laundry done. I will arrive in Santiago tomorrow pretty much as dirty as I have been for the past month! Excited nonetheless. 

Early morning in the eucalyptus forest. They are imported trees that have become invasive, but they are quite beautiful. 

Thursday, September 25

We have made it to Santiago! It is slightly anticlimactic since we plan to continue on to Finisterre, but it still felt great to walk into such a historic and sacred place. The city is very lively. Whether they have walked 500 miles or just the last 100K or even biked it, everyone is in a celebratory mood. Lots of street performers and music. After all the mountains and plains it is a little jarring. 

We have a room in a tiny hotel in a quiet area not too far from the cathedral. We are staying here for two nights. It will be such a treat to stay in one place so long. 

Albergues

Day #30: Gonzar to O Coto, 15 miles

Day #31: O Coto to (past) Azura, 16 miles

There are basically three types of albergues (pilgrim hostels)-municipal, church-run, and private. The municipal are the cheapest (about 5€ per night) but seem to have the least charm and amenities. The chuch ones usually offer vespers or mass and sometimes a communal meal. They add to the spiritual component of the walk. We have stayed primarily in the third type--private albergues, even though they are a few euros more. Many have been imaginatively constructed or reconstructed from traditional buildings of the region. There have been some amazing ones. There are anywhere from four to twenty or more pilgrims sleeping in the same room and sharing limited bath facilities. Luckily I am a good sleeper-there are some real snorers here! The worst is the people who get up at four or five a. m. and rustle around trying to get a jump start on the rest of us. But overall the albergues have been an amazing way to share the Camino. 

 

Lots of bunk beds. Luckily, Gracie usually lets me have the bottom. 

A few of the albergues have foot soak pools. This one had a regular swimming pool. 

No boots in the bunk room!

Monday, September 22

We got horribly lost this morning. I think that in the darkness (it doesn't get light until almost 8 a.m.) we missed one of the yellow arrows that guides us. It took many miles and a couple of conversations with people who didn't seem to speak either English or Spanish (Galician?) to get us back on track. What a day!

Tuesday, September 23

Not the greatest weather today and nothing new to report-we didn't get lost, at least. Counting down!

Buen Camino and Ultreia

Day #27: Alto do Poio to Tricastela, 8 miles

Day #28: Triacastela to Barbadeli, 14 miles

Day #29: Barbadelo to Gonzar, 16 miles

All along The Way we have heard cries of "Buen Camino." It is uttered by fellow pilgrims as we pass each other and by locals as we pass through their villages. It's a nice blessing to keep us going.

Yesterday we passed from the Castilla y Leon region into Galicia, the final region on our journey. It is known for its lush green countryside and it's Celt-Iberian culture. Not only is the climate like Ireland or the Scottish Highlands, but the people are related to the Celts. The hills grow heather and gorse and there is a bagpipe-like musical instrument. Instead of "Buen Camino" the locals here call "Ultreia!" It means "Onward!," a good motto for the trip. 

Friday, September 19

With every step, yesterday's challenges seemed more surreal and ridiculous. The sun came out partially, there were a couple more rainbows over the beautiful mountainous countryside, and we found a great place to stay. 

Tomorrow we will pass through Sarria. It is only 100 kilometers from there to Santiago. If getting the Compestela certificate is what you are after, you only have to walk that last 100k. That means that the trail will be much more crowded. In order to avoid a repeat of last night's problem finding a hostel, we spent some time this afternoon trying to book rooms for the next week. It seems very contrary to the spirit of the Camino, but necessary. 

Typical Galician scenery, storm clouds lifting. 

Fresh raspberries for 1€!

Saturday, September 20

A great day just appreciating the beautiful scenery of Galicia and enjoying the evening in the garden of our rural albergue. 

Enjoying the garden, of course, while writing. 

The altar in the private chapel at our albergue.

Sunday, September 21

Today we started our fifth week of walking. So much of it already seems like a dream. In only four more days we will be in Santiago.

 Miss my doggies!

Typical Galician village. 

Cafe con leche break with Marie from San Diego. 

This young woman from Slovakia is walking from Leon to Santiago with her 2- 1/2 year-old son. Sometimes he walks and sometimes she pushes him. I can't imagine doing this!

(You would not be able to fathom why I am doing this, but miss you Dad.)

Stuff

Day #24: Rabanal to Molinaseca, 17 miles

Day #25: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierza, 19 miles

Day #26: Villafranca to O'Ceberiero and beyond, 19 miles

"The weight of your pack is the sum of your fears."

It has been a week since we shipped our excess stuff on to Santiago. It was a very scary thing! We have seen the above quote and been reminded of it several times. We Americans are particularly known for our heavy packs and worrying about planning for every contingency. I've had to let it go! (This includes conditioner to tame my crazy hair.)  Here is what I have with me:

-one change of clothing (besides what I am wearing)

-extra long-sleeved t-shirt

-thermal pullover

-down vest

-hat and buff and sunglasses

-fleece pants

-light dress for after shower and for sleeping

-rain jacket and pack cover

-basic toiletries and a hunk of soap for washing clothes

-first aid stuff

-a towel that measures 12" x 15"

-phone and charger (can't make calls or send texts but serves as camera, e-reader, and internet when wifi is available)

That's it. There's another saying here: "The Camino will provide."  So far it has!

Tuesday, September 16

One of the highlights of the Camino for many people (along with Alto de Perdon, day #5) is the Cruz de Ferro. It is a high iron cross on top of rocks where most people leave a stone from home and have their picture taken, like this:

So we were excited to arrive there this morning and leave the small rocks we carried from home. Here is the picture of us:

Haha. We were fogged in, there were too many people there, our volunteer photographer cut off the cross, and there was this old Spanish woman who was bent over placing and blessing many stones the whole time we were there. So much for the iconic photo. I have to laugh. 

The fog broke a little later and we were treated to gorgeous views for the rest of the day, many tough miles down the mountain. 

Down to 222 k to go!

Wednesday, September 17

Most of the morning was spent walking into, through, and back out of Ponderrada, a rather large town where a huge international biking race is going to be held this weekend. By afternoon we were in the Bierzo, another wine producing region at the base of the Cantabrian Mountains.  

The Knights Templar castle that guarded Ponderrada and the Camino for centuries. 

The weather was very fickle today-our rain jackets were off and on all day and we saw four rainbows. 

Thursday, September 18

This was a day to remember. We knew it would be a tough one, the most strenuous of the entire Camino, up and over two mountains. The first mountain went well and we walked through gorgeous chestnut orchards on the mountainside. The harvest is just beginning, as the farmers rake the nuts up by hand. 

The challenge started with the second, much-higher climb. Soaking rain, sleet, wind, mud, wayward cows, no rooms at the top after walking nineteen miles, a pricey old hotel with no heat or hot water.  There was much more. I can't even process it all right now. And there's another Camino lesson here somewhere, but may take me a while to figure it out! 

Gracie took this photo of a promising start to the day-looking back on Villafranca in the early morning light. 

This was the trail by late afternoon, near the top, and that was the cow that almost knocked me in the mud. Our own running of the bulls. Today's adventure will make a good story someday.