St. James

Day #35: Santiago to Nagiera, 14 miles

Day #36: Nagreira to Santa Marina, 13 miles

Day #37: Santa Marina to Cee, 19 miles

I've learned a lot about St James on this journey. For example, he is not the James who wrote the Book of James. (I feel kind of bad about this because I have always admired the teachings of that James.) I also regret how the Biblical Apostle somehow morphed into James Matamoros, Moor-slayer, during the battles of the Reconquista in the 9th century. (There was plenty of gruesome artwork along the Camino dedicated to this legend.) And basically I just doubt whether any bones buried in Santiago belonged to the Apostle. There is a theory that the bones identified as James's actually belonged to Priscillian of Avila, a 4th century bishop who was executed by the Church for his "heretical" (gnostic) beliefs, and that the Church appropriated his remains and story in its attempt to quash this early, somewhat pagan branch of Christianity.  Not a lot of evidence for that either. For some reason, none of this matters to me. There are mysteries and history surrounding us here that are far greater than whose bones lie in the cathedral and it is those aspects of the Camino on which I choose to dwell.  

Saturday, September 27

Wow, was it hard to leave Santiago this morning and hit the road again. Our packs are heavier again because we picked up the items we had shipped ahead. But it actually felt good once we started moving. There are far less pilgrims past Santiago, too, which is really nice. 

These funny structures are everywhere. They are called horreos and traditionally they were used to store grain. Now many of them are decorative.

Gracie bought a rubber band bracelet from a little girl who made them and sold them along the road.

Beautiful old bridge over the Rio Tambre

Sunday, September 28

A short day today, due to the distance between albergues (there are not nearly as many past Santiago). Instead, I will write about...food! Some people have wondered how a longtime vegetarian could get by In such meat-heavy culture, but it really hasn't been a problem. I eat fish, eggs, and dairy, so I fill up on those, plus lots of nuts. We are burning so many calories each day that I can also fill up on desserts, which are delicious. 

Cheesecake made with local sheep cheese-not very sweet but delicious.

Hot chocolate and churros. Spanish hot chocolate is not like American-it is very thick and rich and made for dipping fresh churros.

And our favorite-tarta de Santiago. It is made with ground almonds, eggs, and sugar, no flour. I could eat it every day (and have for the last week!) They stencil the Santiago cross on top with powdered sugar.

One final food-pulpo. Octopus and squid are VERY popular here in Galicia. Many restaurants are devoted to it. Although I love the fresh seafood, this is not for me!

Monday, September 29

This was our last long day, and it was a hard one. The morning was very foggy but by early afternoon we crested a hilltop and could see the Atlantic in the far distance. What a thrill!

We were high above the foggy valleys in the distance.

I am really fascinated by the horreos. We saw scores of them the last couple days. This one is stone and sits on stone "mushrooms."

Coming down the trail to Cee, our seaside home for the night.