On the Road to Leon

Day #18: Terradillos to Sahagun, 8 miles

Day #19: Sahagun to Reliegos, 19 miles

Day #20: Reliegos to Leon, 4 miles (see below)

Good news: we are almost to Leon. Bad news: I hit a wall today. After about eight miles I felt too sick to continue. Feverish and achy and just plain exhausted. It was Grace's turn to take care of me-she found us an inexpensive hotel here in Sahagun, a small city. I slept most of the day and feel ready to continue. 

We did take the advice of some of our fellow pilgrims and mailed some of our excess belongings on to Santiago-about 12 1/2 pounds between us. Hopefully that takes some of the burden off our poor feet. I hope we don't regret the stuff we shipped, including the backpacking tent and the sleeping bags we had along in case all the albergues are full. 

Built into the hillside in the distance are small homes. The following picture shows a close up of one. You can see the chimneys. They are called bodegas, as are the similar structures for storing wine. 

Thursday, September 11

I felt so much better today after all the rest that we walked 19 miles. We really didn't have much choice! This is how John Brierley, Camino guru and guidebook author, described it, "...no asphalt, no town, no farmyard, no house, but also no water fonts and little shade apart from a few rivers that crisscross this tranquil landscape." Pretty accurate. We were helped by a nice breeze and occasional clouds. The worst of it is that it was very rough terrain so I had to keep my head down most of the day. That meant I missed any photo ops. 

Saturday, September 12

Leon! OK, we cheated a little. We walked four miles this morning and caught a bus for eleven miles through the suburbs and industrial area into the heart of the city. I should feel guilty but it was such a joy to be here early enough to enjoy the city. We got a very nice hotel room not far from the cathedral. It is very Old-World Spanish style. Very cool. 

Leon Cathedral

Built in the 1200s, It is known for having more light and stained glass than any other cathedral in the world (except possibly Chartres). Unlike the Burgos Cathedral last week, where wealthy families were constantly adding chapels in order to buy their way into heaven, the money here was spent on the awesome glass. 

A bank designed by Barcelona's Anton Gaudi.